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Historic Preservation - Technical Procedures

Spectitle:

Replacing Damaged Or Missing Pieces Of Wood Wall Molding

Procedure code:

0644002R

Source:

Hspg Prepared For Nps - Sero

Division:

Wood And Plastics

Section:

Wood Ornaments

Last Modified:

02/24/2012

Details:

Replacing Damaged Or Missing Pieces Of Wood Wall Molding



REPLACING DAMAGED OR MISSING PIECES OF WOOD WALL MOLDING


PART 1---GENERAL

1.01 SUMMARY

    A.   This procedure includes guidance on removing and
         replacing damaged wood wall molding.  This may include
         crown molding, chair rail, wainscotting, base, and door
         and window casings.

    B.   See 01100-07-S for general project guidelines to be
         reviewed along with this procedure.  These guidelines
         cover the following sections:

         1.   Safety Precautions

         2.   Historic Structures Precautions

         3.   Submittals

         4.   Quality Assurance

         5.   Delivery, Storage and Handling

         6.   Project/Site Conditions

         7.   Sequencing and Scheduling

         8.   General Protection (Surface and Surrounding)

         These guidelines should be reviewed prior to performing
         this procedure and should be followed, when applicable,
         along with recommendations from the Regional Historic
         Preservation Officer (RHPO).


PART 2---PRODUCTS

2.01 MANUFACTURERS

    A.   For Wood Molding:

         1.   Robert F. de Castro, Inc.
              P.O. Box 51251
              New Orleans, LA  70151
              504/891-5889

         2.   Keddee Woodworkers
              P.O. Box 148
              East Greenwich, RI  02818
              401/943-1694

         3.   Michael's Fine Colonial Products
              R.D.1, Box 179A
              Salt Point, NY  12578
              914/677-3960

         4.   Old World Molding & Finishing Co.
              115 Allen Blvd.
              Farmingdale, NY  11735
              516/822-2280

         5.   Silverton Victorian Woodworks
              Box 877
              Silverton, CO  81433
              303/387-5716

         6.   Sunflake Windows
              P.O.Box 28
              Bayfield, CO  81122
              303/884-9546

         7.   Walker & Zanger
              P.O.Box 241
              Scarsdale, NY  10583
              914/472-5666
   
         8.   Woodwright Co.
              18 Hyannis Drive
              Asheville, NC  28804
              704/254-5577

2.02 MATERIALS

    A.   Molding replacement piece of matched species, age, and
         grain orientation

    B.   Finish nails

    C.   White or yellow wood glue

    D.   Wood putty

    E.   Sandpaper

2.03 EQUIPMENT

    A.   Claw hammer

    B.   Nail puller or pliers

    C.   Putty knives

    D.   Knife for marking

    E.   Coping saw

    F.   Backsaw or dovetail saw

    G.   12" combination square

    H.   Nailset

    F.   Compass or pair of dividers for scribing

    G.   Sturdy work gloves


PART 3---EXECUTION

3.01 EXAMINATION

    A.   Inspect for paint that is worn, chipped, peeling,
         blistered, or flaking.  If any of these conditions exist
         there may be moisture entering the feature.  Check for
         possible sources of this moisture and correct as
         necessary.

    B.   Inspect for the signs of decay and/or insect infestation
         and make repairs as necessary.

    C.   Determine the type of corner construction used before
         removing any molding.  Outside trim corners are usually
         mitered (joining pieces are both cut at 45 degrees).
         Inside corners are usually coped (one piece is cut with
         a coping saw so that it contours the adjacent piece at 90
         degrees).

3.02 PREPARATION

    A.   Surface Preparation:  

         1.   Mask or cover adjacent surfaces and permanent
              equipment during repair and maintenance.  Coverings
              must be adhered without adhesive tape or nails.
              Impervious sheeting that produces condensation
              shall not be used.

         2.   Repair any scratches, gouges or dents in molding
              before removing it.  See 06440-04-R for guidance.

3.03 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION

    NOTE:  IF MOLDING IS DAMAGED, REPLACE AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE.
    SEARCH STORAGE AREAS FOR POSSIBLE SPARE PIECES OR TRADE WITH
    A PIECE IN AN INCONSPICUOUS LOCATION.

    IF A REPLACEMENT PIECE MUST BE PRODUCED, USE THE SAME WOOD
    SPECIES AND GRAIN ORIENTATION.  IF POSSIBLE LOOK FOR SALVAGED
    WOOD OF THE SAME AGE AS ORIGINAL BECAUSE IT MATCHES BETTER
    THAN NEW WOOD.

    A.   Remove damaged section of molding.

         1.   Use a putty knife or scraper to loosen glue or
              paint build-up between the molding and the wall.

         2.   Determine the type of corner construction used (see
              Section 3.01 above).

         3.   Remove the coped board first (it would have been
              installed after its adjacent mate).

         4.   Pry boards at the edges or joint; if removing
              baseboards or ceiling moldings, begin at the
              corners.

         5.   Beginning at one end, gently hammer a prybar
              between the molding and the wall.  PLACE A WOOD
              SHINGLE OR WIDE-BLADED PUTTY KNIFE UNDER THE PRYBAR
              AND AGAINST THE WALL TO PROTECT THE WOOD FROM BEING
              DAMAGED BY THE PRYBAR.  FOR VERY SOFT WOODS, USE
              TWO PUTTY KNIVES - ONE FOR PROTECTING THE WALL AND
              ONE FOR PROTECTING THE TRIM.

         6.   Gently pull the wood away from the wall using the
              prybar until a nail is visible.

         7.   Pry the molding open at the visible nail until the
              next nail is visible.  Continue prying along the
              length of the molding.  WORK THE PRYBAR ONLY AT
              NAIL LOCATIONS.

              a.   If large-headed common nails are used to
                   secure the molding, try removing the nails
                   before completely removing the molding from
                   the wall.

                   1)   Pry molding approximately 1/4" away from
                        wall as described above.  

                   2)   Using a wood block, gently tap the
                        molding back against the wall.  The nail
                        heads should project enough from the
                        surface so that the nails can be removed.

                   3)   If the nails are thin enough, cut off the
                        exposed nailheads using wire cutters.

                        -OR-

                        Use a prybar to pry the nails from the
                        wood.  PLACE A WOOD SHINGLE OR PUTTY
                        KNIFE UNDER THE PRYBAR AND AGAINST THE
                        MOLDING TO PROTECT THE WOOD FROM BEING
                        DAMAGED BY THE PRYBAR.

              b.   If small-headed finish nails are used to
                   secure the molding, they will either slide
                   through the molding and remain in the wall or
                   come out with the molding when it is removed.

         8.   When all of the nails have been pried loose, gently
              remove the entire board away from the wall.

              a.   Remove any finish nails remaining in the wood
                   using a nail puller or pliers.

                   NOTE:  ALWAYS REMOVE THE NAILS FROM THE BACK
                   OF THE WOOD.  NEVER HAMMER THE NAILS THROUGH
                   THE FRONT.  NAILHEADS ARE USUALLY SET BELOW
                   THE SURFACE AND FILLED WITH PUTTY.  PUSHING
                   THE NAILHEAD THROUGH THE FRONT OF THE WOOD CAN
                   CAUSE THE WOOD TO SPLINTER.

              b.   If common nails remain in the wood after it
                   has been removed, cut them with heavy wire
                   cutters as close to the back of the board as
                   possible.  File any remaining pieces of nail
                   projecting from the surface.

         9.   If molding is to be reused, be sure to mark each
              piece on the back with its location.

    B.   Cutting the Replacement Molding:

         1.   For a Mitered Joint:  Measure the new piece from
              the short point (the inside edge).  Make cut mark
              with knife instead of pencil for more accurate cut.
              Always cut on the waste side of the line.

         2.   For a Coped Joint:  Profile cut the new piece.
              Smaller pieces can be cut to the right length in a
              miter box.  Slightly undercut sawn edge with coping
              saw to assure tight fit.

         3.   For larger moldings, butt board to be cut up
              against board to be mated at 90 degrees.  Scribe
              the profile with a compass or a pair of dividers.
              Cut along scribed line with coping saw.

         4.   To join a long piece of baseboard, ceiling molding,
              etc. to existing, make a scarf joint.  To achieve a
              scarf joint, cut meeting pieces at a 45 degree
              angle.  Position the joint over a wall stud for
              support.

    C.   Installing the Molding:

         1.   Test the fit of the molding by temporarily tacking
              it in position using two finish nails.  DO NOT
              hammer the nails all the way in.

         2.   If the piece fits well, nail in place with
              finishing nails.  Use existing nail holes if
              possible, but hammer nails at an angle so that they
              will strike new wood.  

         3.   Hammer the nail into the wood until it is just
              above the wood surface.

         4.   Use a nailset to set the nail about 1/8" below the
              wood surface.

         5.   Cover the recessed nailhead with putty and wipe
              clean so that it is flush with the surface.

                         END OF SECTION