Closing Open Joints In Wood Wall Moldings
- Procedure code:
- Hspg Prepared For Nps - Sero
- Wood and Plastics
- Wood Ornaments
- Last Modified:
CLOSING OPEN JOINTS IN WOOD WALL MOLDINGS
A. This procedure includes guidance on closing an open joint
in wood wall molding by removing and reinstalling or,
when removal is not possible, by filling the piece.
B. An open joint in wood wall ornament is usually the result
of paint build-up. To repair an open joint, all excess
paint must be removed. This procedure provides guidance
ONLY for repairing open joints. See 06400-07-R, 06400-02-S
and 06400-09-R for information on removal of paint
C. See 01100-07-S for general project guidelines to be
reviewed along with this procedure. These guidelines
cover the following sections:
1. Safety Precautions
2. Historic Structures Precautions
4. Quality Assurance
5. Delivery, Storage and Handling
6. Project/Site Conditions
7. Sequencing and Scheduling
8. General Protection (Surface and Surrounding)
These guidelines should be reviewed prior to performing
this procedure and should be followed, when applicable,
along with recommendations from the Regional Historic
Preservation Officer (RHPO).
A. Paint removal chemicals (if needed)
B. Wood filler
A. Utility knife or scraper to cut paint film
B. 2 inch wide blade putty knives
D. 2 prybars
E. Nail puller
F. Carpenter's nippers for nail heads
G. Heat gun or plate for paint removal (see 06400-09-R for
special precautions when using heat to remove paint from
H. Scraper or chisel for cleaning joint
I. Saw to undercut miter
J. Drill for possible pilot hole
A. Surface Preparation: Adjacent surfaces and permanent
equipment must be masked or covered during repair and
maintenance. Coverings must be adhered without adhesive
tape or nails. Impervious sheeting that produces
condensation shall not be used.
3.02 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION
NOTE: The repair of an open joint involves the removal and
reinstallation of the molding, or the filling of open joints
with wood filler. ONLY WHEN A JOINT CANNOT BE CLOSED SHOULD
IT BE FILLED.
A. Removing molding - Start at an inconspicuous corner. Cut
paint build-up or wallpaper overlap between trim and
1. Insert two putty knives into edge of board to
protect molding and wall. Carefully hammer the
bent end of prybar between putty knives.
2. Using wall as a fulcrum, work the molding away from
the wall until a nail is spotted. Hold space open
with another prybar or shingle and pry at location
of nail. Continue until all nails are exposed and
trim is loose. Remove trim by hand.
3. If two moldings are attached to each other,
carefully use two prybars against each other.
4. Label all removed pieces so that they can be
identified and reassembled properly.
B. Cleaning molding - Remove all nails by pulling finish
nails through the back of molding. Carefully cut the
heads off larger nails and pull the remainder through the
1. Remove paint from molding at joints with heat or
chemicals (see 06400-07-R, 06400-02-S and 06400-09-R
for guidance. Carefully scrape joint clean with
chisel or scraper.
2. If open joint is a miter, undercut miter at one or
C. Reinstalling molding - Temporarily position piece by
nailing a finish nail half way in though existing nail
1. If position is correct, nail in place. Hammer the
nail at a different angle through same hole. Use
nailset to sink final few blows so as not to damage
surface of wood.
2. A new nail hole may be required if a piece is less
than 5/8" thick. To avoid splitting, never nail
within 2" of board end, blunt the head of the nail
or snip it off, and/or drill a pilot hole.
D. Filling open joint - If joint cannot be restored to its
original position, remove as much paint as possible
according to manufacturer's instructions. Fill gap with
resilient wood filler and let dry. Add additional filler
if shrinkage occurs and sand to achieve a smooth finish.
END OF SECTION