Repairing A Detached Batten Roll Seam On A Sheetmetal Roof
- Procedure code:
- Hspg Prepared For Nps - Sero
- Thermal and Moisture Protection
- Sheet Metal Roofing
- Last Modified:
REPAIRING A DETACHED BATTEN ROLL SEAM ON A SHEETMETAL ROOF
A. This procedure includes guidance on repairing a detached
batten roll seam on a sheetmetal roof. GENERALLY, THIS
WORK SHOULD BE ACCOMPLISHED BY A EXPERIENCED ROOFING
B. A batten seam metal roof damaged by wind usually results
in unclipped cross welts. A batten roll which has pulled
away from the decking is usually caused by bad
C. A sheetmetal roof with batten roll seams is stronger in
some ways than a sheetmetal roof with standing seams.
1. Batten roll seams have a deeper profile than
standing seams. This deeper profile enhances the
rigidity of the bays.
2. More material is required in the upstands to the
rolls, so the net width of bay for a given width of
sheet or strip is less than with standing seams.
This also provides added strength to the system.
D. Safety Precautions:
1. Wear rubber-soled shoes that have non-slip or grid
type tread (preferably sneakers with a high top for
good ankle support). Avoid wearing loose clothing.
2. Wear a safety belt or harness and secure it to a
substantial chimney or to a window on the opposite
side of the house. = Leave only enough slack so you
can work comfortably in one area, and adjust the
slack as you work on other sections of the roof.
3. Be sure the roof is clear of debris and water.
4. Do not work on wet or snow covered roofs. Work on
5. Steep roofs: On roof slopes greater than 4 inches
rise per foot, special consideration must be given
to both footing and materials handling.
a. Secure chicken ladders or cleats at the top
for adequate footing.
b. Hang and secure approved safety lines with
ropes of sufficient strength.
c. Carry a limited number of materials so that
balance and footing are not impaired.
E. Historic Structures Precautions:
1. Historic and regional roofing craftsmanship
examples characteristic of the structure are to be
treated with sensitivity, to be preserved and
2. Historic work tolerances--Dimensions and general
tolerances: Replacement, repair and new roofing
work shall be equal to original workmanship.
Roofing repair shall match prototype exposure,
size, pattern and material. Reinstall using
existing or compatible fastenings.
F. See 01100-07-S for general project guidelines to be
reviewed along with this procedure. These guidelines
cover the following sections:
1. Safety Precautions
2. Historic Structures Precautions
4. Quality Assurance
5. Delivery, Storage and Handling
6. Project/Site Conditions
7. Sequencing and Scheduling
8. General Protection (Surface and Surrounding)
These guidelines should be reviewed prior to performing
this procedure and should be followed, when applicable,
along with recommendations from the Regional Historic
Preservation Officer (RHPO).
A. Anneal - the operation of heating and cooling the metal
to soften it and make it less brittle.
B. Brazing - to solder with a non-ferrous metal that melts
at a lower temperature than that of the metals being
C. Bay - a unit of sheet covering as laid between rolls or
D. Capping - a metal strip, covering the top of a batten
roll, welted to the edges of the sheets which are dressed
up the side of the roll.
E. Cleats or Clips - metal strips, cut to lengths to suit
roll or seam, placed at intervals and securely fixed to
the roof base, the ends being welted in with the edges of
the sheets to hold the metal roofing in position.
F. Lock Joint - a single or double welted joint.
G. Roll-common, intersecting, or ridge - a shaped timber
core against the sides of which the metal is dressed or
H. Saddle End - the completion of a batten roll covering or
a standing seam against an abutment.
I. Solder - metal or metallic alloy of tin and lead used
when melted to join metallic surfaces.
J. Welting - joining metal sheets at their edges by folding
together. Welted joints may consist of single or double
folds, termed single or double welts respectively.
1.03 DELIVERY, STORAGE AND HANDLING
A. Storage and Protection:
1. Material storage: Keep uninstalled roof materials
under cover, dry, free from scratches,
condensation, and distortion during delivery,
storage, and handling.
2. Salvage storage: Historic material to be used as
example of original construction shall be stored as
directed by the Regional Historic Architect. Often
original roof metal scrap pieces with exposed
weather can be found in attic spaces.
1.04 PROJECT/SITE CONDITIONS
A. Environmental Requirements: Do not repair metal roof in
misty or rainy weather.
A. The amount of maintenance required will depend on the
kind of roofing used and the exposure hazards. It will
also depend on the degree of waterproofing quality and
exterior appearance that is acceptable.
B. Rinse dirt with water annually.
C. Keep the roof clear of debris, and trim all overhanging
branches that might cause mechanical damage.
D. Inspect for and remove any debris
which can corrode sheetmetals.
E. Inspect the secureness of cleats and fasteners and the
condition of the sheetmetal after particularly heavy
2.01 MANUFACTURERS - see also Technical Procedure 0761004R for list.
A. Revere Copper
C. Metal Sales Mfg. Corp.
D. Vulcan Supply Corporation
E. Fine Metal Roof Tech
A. Screws - #12 gauge steel, with counter sunk heads
B. Hardwood block
C. Hole saw
D. Electric drill
E. Cleats/patches to match metal of roof
F. Sheetmetal to match existing
H. Soldering flux
A. Chicken ladder, safety belt or harness
B. Protective gloves and gear
C. Straight snips for cutting straight or slightly curved
lines in sheetmetal 24 gauge or lighter
D. Soldering copper, soldering iron
E. Handy tongs for bending the edges of the solder
1. At the end of each work day, provide building
protection for any exterior roofing element removed
for repair or replacement.
2. Repair only a quantity of roofing which may be
completed on that same day. At the end of the day,
use 15 pound roofing felt or polyethylene sheeting
to drape over missing roofing and insert under roof
unit laps or temporarily secure areas of existing
roofing and roof as required to make roof
watertight and windproof.
3. Keep trees trimmed to prevent branches from
scuffing roofing surfaces.
4. Use scaffolding, ladders, and working platforms as
required to execute the work. Ladders shall not be
supported on hanging gutters. They may be
distorted which can affect the slope to drain.
5. Establish regulations for roof foot traffic. Many
roofing materials should not be walked on. When
working on lead roofing, a self-supporting ladder
might be hung from the roof ridge. Such items
should be specifically designed and kept in a
storage area adjacent to the roof access. Plank
ceiling joists under roof hatch.
3.02 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION
A. If underside of roof is accessible, batten roll seam may
be fixed from the underside of the roof deck.
1. Relocate the screws or nails in the original holes.
2. Drive the roll and fastenings until the underside
of the roll is in close contact with the roof deck.
BE SURE THE FASTENINGS DO NOT PENETRATE CAPPING.
3. Use a hardwood block on top of the roll to protect
the capping, paying particular attention to any
fastenings that are forced back up through the
roll, they are easily identified by small bumps in
4. Locate the centerline of the batten roll on the
underside of the deck.
a. If the existing screws are long enough to have
penetrated both the batten and the roof deck,
the centerline should be apparent.
b. If the existing screws do not penetrate the
batten and the roof deck:
1) Drill 2 small, no more that half the diameter of the #12 screws, on the
top side of the roll at each end of the
loose batten. Drill through to the
underside of the deck.
2) Strike a chalk line on the deck between
these two points to mark the center line
of the batten.
3) Drill pilot holes along this line, spaced
no more than 18" apart.
4) If possible, have someone press down on
the roll from above while inserting new
#12 gauge steel screws, with counter sunk
heads, through the deck, but NOT all the
way through the batten. BE SURE PILOT
HOLES AND/OR FASTENINGS DO NOT PENETRATE
5. Patch the small holes left in the capping by
soldering a small disc of the same sheetmetal,
about the size of a penny, over the holes.
B. If the underside of roof is NOT accessible:
1. Remove the capping strip by carefully opening the
single welts attaching it to the bay upstands.
2. Drive existing fasteners below the top surface of
the roll, providing new screws in different
positions as required.
3. Replace the capping strip -or- if the original
capping cannot be salvaged or reused, prepare the
replacement capping strip from new metal of the
same thickness of the original.
4. Dress the half-welt edges of the bays flat on the
support of a metal bar.
5. Do not attempt to anneal the edges because the
timber batten will ignite= .
C. Repairing a Batten Roll Seam with Minimal Disturba= nce to
1. Use a 1/2"-5/8" diameter hole saw and electric
drill to cut holes in the metal capping strip at
the required centers.
2. Continue to drill with a 1/4 inch twist bit to
countersink the hole into the top of the roll.
3. Refasten the roll with #12 gauge steel screws of
sufficient length to penetrate the batten roll and
4. Solder metal discs 1" to 1-1/4" in diameter over
the holes in the capping strip (see 05010-07-R for
guidance on soldering metal).
5. If needed, the new metal can be made to blend in
with a well-weathered roof by artificial
END OF SECTION